
The History of
Embroidery
People have been embellishing their clothing,
wall hangings and other materials with embroidery
for thousands of years. There are several forms of needlework that are
considered embroidery, with something to appeal
to just about every taste.
As far back as Egyptian and Hebrew times individuals decorated their
clothing with rich embroidery. If you visit
some museums today you can still see Ecclesiastical robes from as far back
as the Middle Ages that are richly trimmed with embroidery accented with
gold or silver threads to reflect the status of high-ranking bishops or
cardinals.
In Europe, needlework evolved as a way to
dress up the otherwise austere environments of castles and manor houses
during Norman times when these buildings were still mainly fortifications.
Noblewomen were taught embroidery as an
essential talent that would be considered valuable when they married. It
would make their homes more luxurious and attractive.
One of the most famous pieces of
embroidery in the world is the Bayeux Tapestry,
a 231 foot long rendition of the Battle of Hastings originally hung, no
doubt, in some Great Hall. It is easy to imagine a group of ladies gathered
round the fine linen during long winters in front of a roaring fireplace
carefully working the stitches while they shared news and stories.
Embroidery was a social event, an activity and
a way to add beauty to their lives.
During the 1700s and 1800s, needlework became
more and more elaborate and the work fell to a new class of women who were
specialized needlewomen. The aristocracy no longer did the work themselves,
but paid these women to do the work for them during the rise of the merchant
class. It was no longer something a noblewoman would do herself. A
middle-class woman who was talented with a needle, however, could earn a
fine living doing embroidery work.
In 1848 an entrepreneur named Jacob Schiess
opened an embroidery shop in New York staffed
with fifteen women to do hand-needlework. Although technically a “factory”
operation, all of the work was done by hand – he was simply mass producing
the work to sell in his shop. It sold quickly to a new generation of women
who no longer had time to do needlework themselves.
In the 1870’s, the Schiffli embroidery machine
revolutionized the process with a continuously threaded needle and a system
similar to the sewing machine, using a bobbin to make it possible to produce
embroidery that looked like the hand-made variety. Soon nearly everyone
could afford embroidered clothing, not just the wealthy.
Embroidery Styles
Reflect Regions
Over the centuries, different regions of the
world developed specific styles of embroidery. Today many of these cultural
regions are reviving interest in their embroidery heritage.
-
Hardanger is an elaborate
tone-on-tone (usually white on white) embroidery originated by Norwegian
women who used the linen raised in the region and elaborate stitches and
cut-work to decorate their clothing and household items. It is a
delicate form of whitework. There are other variations of whitework as
well, including Broderie Anglaise (specific to regions of
England) and Ayrshire (specific to regions of Scotland).
Each are delicate forms of embroidery with cut-work and are known for
specific stitches and/or details such as eyelet or satin trims.
-
Crewel embroidery is done of
two-ply wool on top of a heavy linen. It gives a raised appearance and
is a style over 600 years old, probably originating in Persia although
sometimes mistakenly called “Jacobean.” It is most frequently seen in
flower, leaf and vine motifs for home décor items. This is very
distinctive in style.
-
Chikan is traditional Indian
embroidery using a variety of stitches,
especially a chain stitch, on a colored ground. Popular on saris and
other articles of clothing.
-
Cross-stitch is one of the most
popular forms of embroidery done in the
world today. This is done with the same stitch over and over, a tiny
“x,” across a canvas in order to form an image out of the varying colors
of thread. The threads are usually silk or some other richly colored,
high sheen material.
Why
Embroidery?
The elaborate detail and painstaking work
involved in the various forms have seen a resurgence in recent years. In
fact, millions more people do embroidery each
year for personal pleasure. Why? The most common reason given is relaxation.
This may sound surprising, but many will tell you that focusing on a project
that encourages focusing on details and forces you to stop festering on
everyday worries can really clear the mind! Others will tell you that
embroidery is habit-forming – once you begin
creating unique designs, you can’t seem to stop! Another surprise – more and
more men are taking up cross-stitch and other forms of
embroidery.
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